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Susa

The Apadana (Throne hall) at Susa. Photo Marco Prins.
The Apadana of Susa
Susa (Šušim): capital of Elam, favorite residence of the Persian king Darius I the Great. Photos of Susa can be found here.

Susa is one of the oldest cities in the world. Excavations have established that people were living at the acropolis in 5000 BCE and have shown the existence of urban structures about 4000, and it is reasonable that the town, situated on a strip of land between the rivers Karkheh (Choaspes) and Dez (Eulaeus), was already the political center of Elam in the fourth millennium.

 
Map of Susa. Design Jona Lendering.

It has partly been overbuilt with a modern castle that was used by the French archaeologists.

A second part of the city is now called the royal hill. From written sources, we know that there must have been ziggurat, which must have stood somewhere over here. A third part is the artisan's quarter, which was to the east of the buildings on this map. The ruins of a donjon on a steep hilltop in the southeast date back to the earliest period.

Map of the Achaemenid palace at Susa. Design Jona Lendering.
Achaemenid palace

The Assyrian king Aššurbanipal destroyed the Elamite capital between 645-640 BCE. It is unclear what happened in the next century, but after this, Susa was one of the capitals of the Achaemenid empire. The city was rebuilt by the Persian king Darius the Great (522-486). The Apadana palace was clearly his favorite residence. The Greek researcher Herodotus of Halicarnassus, who wrote a lot about the Achaemenid empire, did not know of another capital.

The scene of the Biblical book of Esther is laid in Susa, where king Ahasverus (Xerxes) resides. Archaeologists have been able to identify several rooms in the palace with rooms mentioned by the author of Esther.

Model of Susa. From W. Hinz, Darius und die Perser (1976).
Model of Susa (From W. Hinz, Darius und die Perzer, 1976; ©!!!)

On the picture, the Apadana palace is visible at top left. There were three courtyards, two entrance gates and an apadana (audience hall), the roof of which was supported by 36 columns inside abnd 36 columns outside. 

Unfortunately, a big fire during the reign of king Artaxerxes I Makrocheir (465-424) destroyed much of the buildings from this age. The city was rebuilt, however, and continued to be in use for centuries, although at some stage, the people settled closer to the river.

The ancient city could be excavated in the twentieth century. Unfortunately, even the ruins were not left alone: they were partly destroyed during the First Gulf War.

Persian palace guard, found at Susa. Now in the Louvre, Paris.
Persian soldier, from Susa (Louvre, Paris)
This was the place of the famous incident told by Herodotus:
When Darius was king of Persia, he summoned the Greeks who happened to be present at his court, and asked them what they would take to eat the dead bodies of their fathers. They replied that they would not do it for any money in the world. Later, in the presence of the Greeks, and through an interpreter, so that they could understand what was said, he asked some Indians of the tribe called Callatiae, who do in fact eat their parents' dead bodies, what they would take to burn them. They uttered a cry of horror and forbade him to mention such a dreadful thing.
[Herodotus, Histories 3.38;
tr. Aubrey de Selincourt]
  King Artaxerxes II Mnemon (404-358) built a second audience hall on the opposite bank of the river, which is visible at bottom left of the picture.

The conical structure in front is more recent. Here, muslims venerate the tomb of the prophet Daniel, another figure related to the Persian court at Susa. In fact, there were other capitals (Pasargadae, Persepolis, and Ecbatana), but is evident that Susa was more impressive. An inscription in the palace, known as DSf, describes how Darius built his residence.

Statue of Darius, once erected in Egypt, but later brought to Susa. Archaeological Museum of Tehran (Iran). Photo Marco Prins.
Statue of Darius, once erected in Egypt, but later brought to Susa. (Archeological Museum of Tehran)
A great god is Ahuramazda, who created this earth, who created yonder sky, who created man, who created happiness for man, who made Darius king, one king of many, one lord of many.
     Darius the King says: By the favor of Ahuramazda I built this palace.
     Darius the King says: Ahuramazda, the greatest of the gods created me,  made me king, bestowed upon me this kingdom, great, possessed of good horses, possessed of good men.
     By the favor of Ahuramazda, my father Hystaspes and Arsames my grandfather - these both were living when Ahuramazda made me king in this earth.
     To Ahuramazda thus was the desire: he chose me as his man in all the earth; he made me king in all the earth.
     I worshipped Ahuramazda. Ahuramazda bore me aid. What was by me commanded to do, that he made successful for me. What I did, all by the favor of Ahuramazda I did.
     This palace which I built at Susa, from afar its ornamentation was brought. Downward the earth was dug, until I reached rock in the earth. When the excavation had been made, then rubble was packed down, some 40 cubits in depth, another part 20 cubits in depth. On that rubble the palace was constructed.
     And that the earth was dug downward, and that the rubble was packed down, and that the sun-dried brick was molded, the Babylonian people performed these tasks.
      The cedar timber, this was brought from a mountain named Lebanon. The Assyrian people brought it to Babylon; from Babylon the Carians and the Yaunâ [=Greeks] brought it to Susa. The yakâ-timber was brought from Gandara and from Carmania.
      The gold was brought from Lydia and from Bactria, which here was wrought. The precious stone lapis lazuli and carnelian which was wrought here, this was brought from Sogdia. The precious stone turquoise, this was brought from Chorasmia, which was wrought here.
      The silver and the ebony were brought from Egypt. The ornamentation with which the wall was adorned, that from Yaunâ was brought. The ivory which was wrought here, was brought from Kush and from India and from Arachosia.
      The stone columns which were here wrought, a village named Abiradu, in Elam - from there were brought. The stone-cutters who wrought the stone, those were Yaunâ and Lydians.
     The goldsmiths who wrought the gold, those were Medes and Egyptians. The men who wrought the wood, those were Lydians and Egyptians. The men who wrought the baked brick, those were Babylonians. The men who adorned the wall, those were Medes and Egyptians.
      Darius the King says: At Susa a very excellent work was ordered, a very excellent work was brought to completion.
     Me may Ahuramazda protect, and Hystaspes my father, and my country.
An Elamite. Eastern stairs of the apadana at Persepolis. Photo Marco Prins.
An Elamite with a cub (Relief 
from the eastern stairs of the
Apadana at Persepolis)

This text interesting because it mentions many nations. The palace was clearly meant as propaganda, where every visitor would be impressed by the size of the empire. An inscription, D2Sa, records reconstruction works from the age of Artaxerxes I Makrocheir and Darius II Nothus.

After the fall of the Achaemenid empire and the reign of Alexander the Great, who married in Susa (text), the city became part of the Seleucid empire. It was now called Seleucia on the Eulaeus. A palace in Greek style was erected, next to Darius' palace. The administrative center, however, was in the southern part of the city, where nearly all Greek and Parthian inscriptions were discovered. In the Parthian age, the city minted coins. The city remained important until the thirteenth century CE. Excavation started in 1897.
 

Literature

R. Boucharlat, "Susa under Achaemenid Rule" in: John Curtis (ed.) Mesopotamia and Iran in the Persian Period: Conquest and Imperialism 559-331 BC (1997 London) 54-67
 
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