That was not very clever: visiting the National Archaeological Museum on the last day of a two week trip through northern and central Greece. Of course, it was a nice summary of everything we’ve seen, but I think it would have been better to start over here. Ever a teacher, I might have used the museum’s splendid collection of sculpture to explain to my companions the development of Greek art.
That’s what you’ll find on the first floor: lots of sculpture in a series of rooms surrounding a large hall, which is devoted to Mycenaean art. There, you will find the golden objects from Mycenae that Schliemann found. The sculpture rooms surround it. Your tour starts with some kouroi and you can easily follow the growth to greater accuracy in representing the human body. When you’ve finished about a third of your tour, the Greek sculptors have mastered every aspect of anatomy, and you will pass along many classical sculptures, including two dazzling copies of the Diadumenus and the Cnidian Aphrodite. After that, more sculpture: the fourth century, Hellenism, and finally the Roman age.
On the ground floor, there’s also a series of rooms that contain metal art. Here, you will see the Anticythera Mechanism, but also collections of arrowheads from Marathon and Thermopylae. The Egyptian part – also on the ground floor – is a bit odd in a museum dedicated to Greek art, but the collection is too small to be exposed in a museum of its own and too important to keep stored away. In the Hellenistic part of the Egyptian collection, I noticed a statue of Hephaestion that I had never seen before.
Upstairs, you will find a marvelous collection of pottery and some objects that don’t fit anywhere else, like the Lemnian inscription, written in a language related to Etruscan. Next to it is a section dedicated to the investigations at Santorini, where some splendid frescoes have been found.
Do not forget to visit the basement. There’s a little café with a garden, where you will see some of the sculptures found in the Anticythera wreck. They have a certain beauty because they are partly eroded. I found the giant Heracles absolutely fascinating.
This museum was visited in 1989, 1992, 2004, 2007, 2010.
 Mycene, Wall painting of a griffin with a warrior
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 Aegina, Ptolemy VI Philometor
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 Athens, Kerameikos, Skull of Myrthis
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 Megara, Statue of Dionysus
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 Dodona, Figurine of Zeus Keraunos
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 Pharsalus, Krater with a four-horse chariot
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 Zeus and Ganymedes
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 Marathon, Arrowheads
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 Athens, Varvakeion Athena
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 Argos, Theater, Statue of Aphrodite
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 Athens, Agora, Late Geometric pyxis
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 Alexandria, Hephaestion (part of a group with Alexander)
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 Mycene, Dagger with lion hunt
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 Akrotiri, Building B, Room B1, Wall painting of boxers
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 Eleusis, Relief of Demeter, Triptolemus, and Kore
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 Argos, Heraion, West pediment, Palladion
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 Lycian portrait of Omphale
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 Sparta, Statue of Julia Aquilia Severa, damaged after her death
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 Thermopylae, Arrowheads
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 Lebadeia, Relief of Trophonius
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 Athens, Kerameikos, Dipylon krater
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 Aegina, Temple of Apollo, Statue of a wounded warrior
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 Megiste, Bellerophon sarcophagus.
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 Olympia, Head of the boxer Satyros
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 Chalcis-Vromousa, Head of a woman (Roman copy of a Greek original)
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 Epidauros, Temple of Artemis, Nike
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 Thebes, Tombstone
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 Piraeus, Head of a bearded god
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 Argos, Relief of the Doryphorus of Polykleitos
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 Corinth, Relief of a hoplite
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 Piraeus, Funerary stela of Damasistrate
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 Athens, Kerameikos, Siren
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 Eleusis, Relief of a drunk Heracles
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 Hellenistic ruler
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 Aegina, Tombstone of a young man, holding a bird
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 Mycene, Boar's tusk helmet
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 Athens, Kerameikos, Base of the statue of a wrestler
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 Mycene, House of the Warrior Krater, Warrior Krater
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 The fight for the body of Patroclus.
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 Eucratides II of Bactria
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 Athens, Temple of Zeus, Portrait of Polemo of Laodicea
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 Piraeus, Statue of a woman or Demeter
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 Eretria, Lekythos (Bosanquet Painter)
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 Nysa, Bouleuterion, "Little Refugee"
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 Athens, Statue of a Minotaur
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 Alexandria, Alexander the Great (part of a group with Hephaestion)
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 Eretria, Gymnasium, Statue of Cleonicus
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 Eleusis, Temple F, Cecrops and Herse
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 Argos, Heraion, West pediment, Head of Hera
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 Lemnos, Tombstone of an Etruscan (?) warrior
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 Decree of Tefnakht
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 Thebes, Head of Artemis
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 Corinth, Plate with Demeter
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 Artemisium, Statue of Zeus
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 Piraeus, Julian the Apostate
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 Melos, Statue of Poseidon
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 Smyrna, Portrait of Caligula, reworked to resemble Titus
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 Athens, Kerameikos, Alexander with a Lion's Pelt
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 Eleusis, Tombstone of a warrior
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 Piraeus, Funerary stela with ball players
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 Larisa, Tombstone of Polyxena
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 Thebes (?), Block statue of Prince Horwedja, governor and high priest in Heliopolis
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 Athens, Stoa of Attalus, Attalus II Philadelphus
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 Argos, Heraion, Amazonomachy
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 Oropos, Aeolian-Ionic capital
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 Athens, Pnyx, Lenormant Athena
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 Megara, Statue of a Roman emperor (Trajan or Hadrian)
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 Gomphoi, Relief of Odysseus and Amphicleia
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 Lead figurine of Athena
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 Piraeus, Votive stela of a reclining Dionysus
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 Piraeus, Theater, Head of Dionysus (classicizing)
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 Sais, Temple of Neith, Statuette
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 Argos, Heraion, Sima
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 Larisa, Tombstone of a man with a hat
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 Mycene, Wall painting ("La Parisienne")
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 Akrotiri, Building B, Room B1, Wall painting of antelopes
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