Tehran, National Museum

I think that one of the problems with modern museums is that they try to evoke some kind of mysterious atmosphere: in poorly-lit rooms, you can see only a couple of objects lying there, beautifully spotlighted, just looking mysterious. The illumination allows you to look at it from one point of view, but not from other angles. Photography is almost impossible. In other words, you cannot study the objects.

I get the impression that museums are now leaving this cul-de-sac, and return to decent displays. The Archaeological Museum of Tehran has never succumbed to ill-directed aestheticism, and this makes it, easily, one of the better museums dedicated to ancient culture.

This does not mean that there are no beautiful objects. The first part, dedicated to the Neolithicum and Bronze Ages, culminates in the pottery from Susa, which is just splendid. Recently, this part has been redesigned; several objects from the important excavations at Jiroft have been inserted, to name but one change.

Passing along a nice sculpture of a bovine from Choga Zanbil, you will reach the Iron Age, where you will find an Assyrian and an Urartaean inscription, and countless small objects. They are interesting, but your attention is drawn by the great relief next to it, from the northern stairs of the Apadana in Persepolis. Next to it, about half-way through the exhibition, is the statue of Darius from Susa (more…). I visited the museum yesterday with an Egyptologist, who was fascinated by the hieroglyphs.

There are some other Achaemenid remains, including several inscriptions (like this one) and some fine art. Here, you will also see a Penelope in wet-drapery style, taken to Persepolis by either Xerxes or Mardonius.

Compared to the Achaemenid age, the Greek, Parthian, and Sasanian ages are a bit underrepresented. From the Greek age is a fine bust of a Muse, from the Parthian age is a splendid bronze statue of a prince (one of the few remaining bronze statues from Antiquity), and from the Sasanian age are the spooky salt men and some mosaics from Bishapur, made by Antiochene artists.

The museum has a treasury that contains precious objects, made of silver and gold, but it is often closed. Asking for permission to get there is futile. In this aspect, the Tehran Museum suffers from the same error as western museums: it creates obstacles for students. I think this is inexcusable. There is simply no reason why a museum should hide its entire collection from people who have made an effort to get there.

This being said, the Tehran museum is really something special. Next to it is the museum of Islamic Art, which has not been open for quite some time; I remember that I liked it very much. Around the corner you will find the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, situated in a building that is inspired by the Persepolis Apadana; and around another corner, you will find a charming museum dedicated to fine art made of glass. If you have only one day in Tehran, spend it in this part of the city.

This museum was visited in 2004, 2005, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014.

100 pictures related to this museum

Persepolis, Apadana, Inscription XPg	Susa, Relief of Artabanus IV	Ardashir II (Hormizd I), coin	Bishapur, Palace, Mosaic of a lady with flowers
Persepolis, Apadana, Northern Stairs, Central Relief, Darius on his throne	Persepolis, Apadana, Northern Stairs, Central Relief, Great Magian	Susa, Statue of Darius, Darius' name as cartouche: drjwS	Tepe Hisar, Late Bronze Age phial
Susa, Statue of Darius, Subject ch3rs3m' (OP. Uvârazmîy = Chorasmia)	Susa, Hellenistic portrait of a Muse	Persepolis, Apadana, Northern Stairs, Central Relief, Pharnaces	Amulet of Bes from Iran
Susa, Statue of Darius, Subject kmt (OE. Kemet = Egypt)	Susa, Statue of Darius, Subject slng (OP. Zranka = Drangiana)	Susa, Statue of Darius, Subject pls (OP. Parsa = Persis)	Head of a bronze statue of a Parthian prince, found at Shami, Khuzestan
Susa, Statue of Darius, Subject Hgr (Hegra, i.e., Arabia)	Susa, Sassanian portrait	Susa, Statue of Darius, Subject t3 tjmhw (OE. Tjemehu = Cyrenaica)	Susa, Statue of Darius, Subject skdy (OP. Sugda = Sogdia)
Susa, Inscription A2Sb	Yazdgard I, coin	Susa, Statue of Darius, Subject 3Sw3l (Assyria)	Tepe Sialk, Cup from the first millennium
Royal Warrior	Tepe Sialk, Cup from the fourth millennium decorated with a human figure	Persepolis, Portrait of an Achaemenid woman or beardless prince	Persepolis, Apadana, Northern Stairs, Central Relief, Darius' flower
Choga Zanbil, Ziggurat, Inner gate, Lock with Inscription	Persepolis, Tripylon, Staircase	Persepolis, Palace of Darius, Relief of a sphinx	Choga Zanbil, Inner Court, Statue of a cow
Achaemenid nobleman	Persepolis, Apadana, Dog's head	Persepolis, Palace of Darius, Doorknob with inscription DPi	Susa, Statue of Darius, Subject spltj3 (OP. Sparda = Lydia)
Susa, Statue of Darius, Subject sk3tl3 (OP. Skudra = Thrace)	Susa, Statue of Darius the Great, Base with sema-tawy (front)	Susa, Statue of Darius the Great, Belt with akinakes	Susa, Statue of Darius, Subject s3htjl (OP. Bâkhtriš = Bactria)
Susa, Stone fish	Hamadan, Achaemenid statuette of a bull	Susa, Statue of Darius, Subject hlw3 (OP. Haraiva = Aria)	Persepolis, Apadana, Northern Stairs, Central Relief, Incense burners
Bahram V, coin	Persepolis, Apadana, Northern Stairs, Central Relief, Prince	Bahram IV, coin	Susa, Inscription A2Sd
Peroz I, coin	Persepolis, Apadana, Northern Stairs, Central Relief (Proskynesis scene)	Tepe sialk, Jar from the fourth millennium BCE, decorated with ibexes	Persepolis, Apadana, Northern Stairs, Central Relief, Guard, "Apple"
Persepolis, Inscription XPh ("Daiva inscription")	Damghan, Sasanian relief	Hamadan, Achaemenid torque	Susa, Statue of Darius the Great, Base with sema-tawy (rear)
Hellenistic portrait of a queen	Persepolis, Hall of 32 Columns, Plaque	Hamadan, Sasanian dish	Persepolis, Tripylon, Lamassu capital
Persepolis, Queen's Quarters, Inscription XPf, Babylonian text	Hamadan, Achaemenid rhyton	Susa, Inscription A2Sd	Sari, Sasanian plate
Susa, Inscription A2Sb	Iranian Azerbaijan, Disk with a deity with two wild animals	hndw3y (OP. Hinduš = India)	Choga Zanbil, Ziggurat, Doorknob (Tehran)
Persepolis, Treasury, Weight DWc	Susa, Statue of Darius, Subject b3b3l (Babylonia)	Susa, Statue of Darius, Subject t3 nhsy (Kush)	Susa, Statue of Darius, Subject 3lm'yn3 (OP. Armina = Armenia)
Persepolis, Queen's Quarters, Inscription XPf, Persian text (Tehran copy)	Iranian Azerbaijan, Stone weight	Tepe Hesar, Figurine	Susa, Inscription DSy
Susa, Statue of Darius, Subject m'g (Maka)	Susa, Statue of Darius, Subject sg?shkš (OP Sâka = Scythians)	Susa, Statue of Darius, once erected in Egypt, but later brought to Susa.	Persepolis, Apadana, Northern Stairs, Central Relief
Persepolis, Apadana, Northern Stairs, Central Relief, Guard, Weight	Persepolis, Apadana, Northern Stairs, Central Relief, Weapon carrier, Akinakes	Hamadan, Achaemenid cup with relief of a winged lion	Susa, Statue of Darius, Subject '3ylm "Chiefs of Irem" (Elam)
Tepe Sialk, Early first millennium beak pot (2)	Persepolis, Apadana, Northern Stairs, Central Relief, Guards	Valkash, coin	Persepolis, Apadana, Northern Stairs, Central Relief, Darius' stool
Susa, Statue of Darius, Subject m'dy (OP. Mâda = Media)	Persepolis, Apadana, Northern Stairs, Central Relief, Weapon carrier	Susa, Statue of Darius, Subject gdpdk3y (OP. Katpatuka = Cappadocia)	Susa, Statue of Darius, Subject sdgw3? (OP. Thataguš = Sattagydia)
Susa, Statue of Darius the Great, left-hand side of the base	Persepolis, Apadana, Northern Stairs, Central Relief, Darius	Grey ware from Khurvin	Persepolis, Treasury, Statue of Penelope
Yazdgard II, coin	Susa, Statue of Darius, Subject pltiiw3 (OP. Parthava = Parthia)	Susa, Handle of a Parthian coffin	Susa, Statue of Darius, Subject hlhdy (OP. Gandâra = Gandara)