That was not very clever: visiting the National Archaeological Museum on the last day of a two week trip through northern and central Greece. Of course, it was a nice summary of everything we’ve seen, but I think it would have been better to start over here. Ever a teacher, I might have used the museum’s splendid collection of sculpture to explain to my companions the development of Greek art.
That’s what you’ll find on the first floor: lots of sculpture in a series of rooms surrounding a large hall, which is devoted to Mycenaean art. There, you will find the golden objects from Mycenae that Schliemann found. The sculpture rooms surround it. Your tour starts with some kouroi and you can easily follow the growth to greater accuracy in representing the human body. When you’ve finished about a third of your tour, the Greek sculptors have mastered every aspect of anatomy, and you will pass along many classical sculptures, including two dazzling copies of the Diadumenus and the Cnidian Aphrodite. After that, more sculpture: the fourth century, Hellenism, and finally the Roman age.
On the ground floor, there’s also a series of rooms that contain metal art. Here, you will see the Anticythera Mechanism, but also collections of arrowheads from Marathon and Thermopylae. The Egyptian part – also on the ground floor – is a bit odd in a museum dedicated to Greek art, but the collection is too small to be exposed in a museum of its own and too important to keep stored away. In the Hellenistic part of the Egyptian collection, I noticed a statue of Hephaestion that I had never seen before.
Upstairs, you will find a marvelous collection of pottery and some objects that don’t fit anywhere else, like the Lemnian inscription, written in a language related to Etruscan. Next to it is a section dedicated to the investigations at Santorini, where some splendid frescoes have been found.
Do not forget to visit the basement. There’s a little café with a garden, where you will see some of the sculptures found in the Anticythera wreck. They have a certain beauty because they are partly eroded. I found the giant Heracles absolutely fascinating.
This museum was visited in 1989, 1992, 2004, 2007, 2010.
 Artemisium, Statue of Zeus
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 Argos, Heraion, West pediment, Palladion
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 Decree of Tefnakht
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 Athens, Temple of Zeus, Portrait of Polemo of Laodicea
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 Athens, Stoa of Attalus, Attalus II Philadelphus
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 Nysa, Bouleuterion, "Little Refugee"
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 Gomphoi, Relief of Odysseus and Amphicleia
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 Piraeus, Statue of a woman or Demeter
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 Smyrna, Portrait of Caligula, reworked to resemble Titus
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 Dodona, Figurine of Zeus Keraunos
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 Pharsalus, Krater with a four-horse chariot
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 Mycene, Dagger with lion hunt
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 Argos, Heraion, West pediment, Head of Hera
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 Olympia, Head of the boxer Satyros
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 Megara, Statue of Dionysus
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 Corinth, Plate with Demeter
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 Argos, Relief of the Doryphorus of Polykleitos
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 Lebadeia, Relief of Trophonius
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 Alexandria, Hephaestion (part of a group with Alexander)
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 Sais, Temple of Neith, Statuette
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 Athens, Statue of a Minotaur
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 Sparta, Statue of Julia Aquilia Severa, damaged after her death
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 Athens, Kerameikos, Base of the statue of a wrestler
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 Aegina, Ptolemy VI Philometor
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 Larisa, Tombstone of a man with a hat
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 Mycene, Boar's tusk helmet
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 Alexandria, Alexander the Great (part of a group with Hephaestion)
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 Athens, Kerameikos, Alexander with a Lion's Pelt
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 Athens, Kerameikos, Siren
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 Argos, Theater, Statue of Aphrodite
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 Larisa, Tombstone of Polyxena
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 Mycene, Wall painting ("La Parisienne")
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 Athens, Pnyx, Lenormant Athena
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 Mycene, Wall painting of a griffin with a warrior
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 Piraeus, Funerary stela of Damasistrate
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 Melos, Statue of Poseidon
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 Argos, Heraion, Sima
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 Eretria, Gymnasium, Statue of Cleonicus
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 Corinth, Relief of a hoplite
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 Athens, Kerameikos, Skull of Myrthis
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 Eleusis, Relief of Demeter, Triptolemus, and Kore
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 Marathon, Arrowheads
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 Thebes, Tombstone
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 Piraeus, Votive stela of a reclining Dionysus
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 Piraeus, Head of a bearded god
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 Thermopylae, Arrowheads
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 Mycene, House of the Warrior Krater, Warrior Krater
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 Megara, Statue of a Roman emperor (Trajan or Hadrian)
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 Epidauros, Temple of Artemis, Nike
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 Eleusis, Tombstone of a warrior
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 Aegina, Tombstone of a young man, holding a bird
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 Chalcis-Vromousa, Head of a woman (Roman copy of a Greek original)
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 Lycian portrait of Omphale
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 Lemnos, Tombstone of an Etruscan (?) warrior
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 Eleusis, Relief of a drunk Heracles
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 Piraeus, Julian the Apostate
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 Lead figurine of Athena
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 Eretria, Lekythos (Bosanquet Painter)
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 Thebes (?), Block statue of Prince Horwedja, governor and high priest in Heliopolis
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 Athens, Varvakeion Athena
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 Athens, Agora, Late Geometric pyxis
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 Zeus and Ganymedes
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 Eucratides II of Bactria
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 Hellenistic ruler
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 Aegina, Temple of Apollo, Statue of a wounded warrior
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 Argos, Heraion, Amazonomachy
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 Piraeus, Funerary stela with ball players
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 Thebes, Head of Artemis
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 Akrotiri, Building B, Room B1, Wall painting of antelopes
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 Eleusis, Temple F, Cecrops and Herse
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 Oropos, Aeolian-Ionic capital
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 Athens, Kerameikos, Dipylon krater
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 Megiste, Bellerophon sarcophagus.
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 Piraeus, Theater, Head of Dionysus (classicizing)
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 Akrotiri, Building B, Room B1, Wall painting of boxers
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 The fight for the body of Patroclus.
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