That was not very clever: visiting the National Archaeological Museum on the last day of a two week trip through northern and central Greece. Of course, it was a nice summary of everything we’ve seen, but I think it would have been better to start over here. Ever a teacher, I might have used the museum’s splendid collection of sculpture to explain to my companions the development of Greek art.
That’s what you’ll find on the first floor: lots of sculpture in a series of rooms surrounding a large hall, which is devoted to Mycenaean art. There, you will find the golden objects from Mycenae that Schliemann found. The sculpture rooms surround it. Your tour starts with some kouroi and you can easily follow the growth to greater accuracy in representing the human body. When you’ve finished about a third of your tour, the Greek sculptors have mastered every aspect of anatomy, and you will pass along many classical sculptures, including two dazzling copies of the Diadumenus and the Cnidian Aphrodite. After that, more sculpture: the fourth century, Hellenism, and finally the Roman age.
On the ground floor, there’s also a series of rooms that contain metal art. Here, you will see the Anticythera Mechanism, but also collections of arrowheads from Marathon and Thermopylae. The Egyptian part – also on the ground floor – is a bit odd in a museum dedicated to Greek art, but the collection is too small to be exposed in a museum of its own and too important to keep stored away. In the Hellenistic part of the Egyptian collection, I noticed a statue of Hephaestion that I had never seen before.
Upstairs, you will find a marvelous collection of pottery and some objects that don’t fit anywhere else, like the Lemnian inscription, written in a language related to Etruscan. Next to it is a section dedicated to the investigations at Santorini, where some splendid frescoes have been found.
Do not forget to visit the basement. There’s a little café with a garden, where you will see some of the sculptures found in the Anticythera wreck. They have a certain beauty because they are partly eroded. I found the giant Heracles absolutely fascinating.
This museum was visited in 1989, 1992, 2004, 2007, 2010.
 Megiste, Bellerophon sarcophagus.
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 Eleusis, Relief of a drunk Heracles
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 Lead figurine of Athena
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 Aegina, Tombstone of a young man, holding a bird
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 Akrotiri, Building B, Room B1, Wall painting of boxers
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 Alexandria, Hephaestion (part of a group with Alexander)
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 Artemisium, Statue of Zeus
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 Piraeus, Statue of a woman or Demeter
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 Argos, Heraion, West pediment, Palladion
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 Melos, Statue of Poseidon
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 Eucratides II of Bactria
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 Athens, Temple of Zeus, Portrait of Polemo of Laodicea
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 Athens, Kerameikos, Alexander with a Lion's Pelt
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 Mycene, Boar's tusk helmet
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 Athens, Kerameikos, Base of the statue of a wrestler
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 Piraeus, Theater, Head of Dionysus (classicizing)
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 Piraeus, Julian the Apostate
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 Alexandria, Alexander the Great (part of a group with Hephaestion)
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 Lycian portrait of Omphale
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 Thebes (?), Block statue of Prince Horwedja, governor and high priest in Heliopolis
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 Dodona, Figurine of Zeus Keraunos
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 Megara, Statue of Dionysus
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 Mycene, Wall painting ("La Parisienne")
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 Eretria, Lekythos (Bosanquet Painter)
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 Argos, Heraion, West pediment, Head of Hera
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 Corinth, Relief of a hoplite
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 Athens, Agora, Late Geometric pyxis
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 Megara, Statue of a Roman emperor (Trajan or Hadrian)
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 Thebes, Head of Artemis
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 Argos, Heraion, Sima
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 Piraeus, Head of a bearded god
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 Aegina, Ptolemy VI Philometor
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 Thermopylae, Arrowheads
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 Athens, Kerameikos, Siren
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 Oropos, Aeolian-Ionic capital
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 Athens, Kerameikos, Dipylon krater
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 Olympia, Head of the boxer Satyros
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 The fight for the body of Patroclus.
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 Larisa, Tombstone of a man with a hat
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 Lemnos, Tombstone of an Etruscan (?) warrior
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 Eleusis, Temple F, Cecrops and Herse
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 Mycene, House of the Warrior Krater, Warrior Krater
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 Corinth, Plate with Demeter
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 Gomphoi, Relief of Odysseus and Amphicleia
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 Athens, Statue of a Minotaur
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 Athens, Pnyx, Lenormant Athena
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 Argos, Heraion, Amazonomachy
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 Argos, Relief of the Doryphorus of Polykleitos
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 Eretria, Gymnasium, Statue of Cleonicus
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 Eleusis, Relief of Demeter, Triptolemus, and Kore
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 Hellenistic ruler
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 Nysa, Bouleuterion, "Little Refugee"
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 Sparta, Statue of Julia Aquilia Severa, damaged after her death
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 Lebadeia, Relief of Trophonius
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 Smyrna, Portrait of Caligula, reworked to resemble Titus
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 Epidauros, Temple of Artemis, Nike
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 Marathon, Arrowheads
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 Akrotiri, Building B, Room B1, Wall painting of antelopes
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 Mycene, Wall painting of a griffin with a warrior
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 Pharsalus, Krater with a four-horse chariot
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 Athens, Kerameikos, Skull of Myrthis
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 Argos, Theater, Statue of Aphrodite
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 Zeus and Ganymedes
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 Athens, Stoa of Attalus, Attalus II Philadelphus
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 Piraeus, Funerary stela with ball players
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 Piraeus, Funerary stela of Damasistrate
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 Decree of Tefnakht
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 Piraeus, Votive stela of a reclining Dionysus
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 Aegina, Temple of Apollo, Statue of a wounded warrior
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 Sais, Temple of Neith, Statuette
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 Athens, Varvakeion Athena
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 Chalcis-Vromousa, Head of a woman (Roman copy of a Greek original)
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 Thebes, Tombstone
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 Mycene, Dagger with lion hunt
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 Larisa, Tombstone of Polyxena
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 Eleusis, Tombstone of a warrior
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