That was not very clever: visiting the National Archaeological Museum on the last day of a two week trip through northern and central Greece. Of course, it was a nice summary of everything we’ve seen, but I think it would have been better to start over here. Ever a teacher, I might have used the museum’s splendid collection of sculpture to explain to my companions the development of Greek art.
That’s what you’ll find on the first floor: lots of sculpture in a series of rooms surrounding a large hall, which is devoted to Mycenaean art. There, you will find the golden objects from Mycenae that Schliemann found. The sculpture rooms surround it. Your tour starts with some kouroi and you can easily follow the growth to greater accuracy in representing the human body. When you’ve finished about a third of your tour, the Greek sculptors have mastered every aspect of anatomy, and you will pass along many classical sculptures, including two dazzling copies of the Diadumenus and the Cnidian Aphrodite. After that, more sculpture: the fourth century, Hellenism, and finally the Roman age.
On the ground floor, there’s also a series of rooms that contain metal art. Here, you will see the Anticythera Mechanism, but also collections of arrowheads from Marathon and Thermopylae. The Egyptian part – also on the ground floor – is a bit odd in a museum dedicated to Greek art, but the collection is too small to be exposed in a museum of its own and too important to keep stored away. In the Hellenistic part of the Egyptian collection, I noticed a statue of Hephaestion that I had never seen before.
Upstairs, you will find a marvelous collection of pottery and some objects that don’t fit anywhere else, like the Lemnian inscription, written in a language related to Etruscan. Next to it is a section dedicated to the investigations at Santorini, where some splendid frescoes have been found.
Do not forget to visit the basement. There’s a little café with a garden, where you will see some of the sculptures found in the Anticythera wreck. They have a certain beauty because they are partly eroded. I found the giant Heracles absolutely fascinating.
This museum was visited in 1989, 1992, 2004, 2007, 2010.
 The fight for the body of Patroclus.
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 Thebes (?), Block statue of Prince Horwedja, governor and high priest in Heliopolis
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 Argos, Relief of the Doryphorus of Polykleitos
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 Oropos, Aeolian-Ionic capital
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 Lebadeia, Relief of Trophonius
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 Argos, Heraion, Sima
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 Piraeus, Funerary stela of Damasistrate
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 Decree of Tefnakht
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 Lycian portrait of Omphale
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 Larisa, Tombstone of Polyxena
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 Smyrna, Portrait of Caligula, reworked to resemble Titus
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 Aegina, Ptolemy VI Philometor
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 Marathon, Arrowheads
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 Megiste, Bellerophon sarcophagus.
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 Hellenistic ruler
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 Aegina, Tombstone of a young man, holding a bird
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 Piraeus, Theater, Head of Dionysus (classicizing)
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 Eucratides II of Bactria
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 Lemnos, Tombstone of an Etruscan (?) warrior
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 Corinth, Plate with Demeter
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 Mycene, Wall painting of a griffin with a warrior
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 Athens, Kerameikos, Skull of Myrthis
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 Artemisium, Statue of Zeus
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 Larisa, Tombstone of a man with a hat
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 Alexandria, Hephaestion (part of a group with Alexander)
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 Thermopylae, Arrowheads
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 Epidauros, Temple of Artemis, Nike
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 Athens, Kerameikos, Alexander with a Lion's Pelt
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 Argos, Heraion, Amazonomachy
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 Akrotiri, Building B, Room B1, Wall painting of antelopes
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 Mycene, House of the Warrior Krater, Warrior Krater
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 Eleusis, Relief of Demeter, Triptolemus, and Kore
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 Mycene, Boar's tusk helmet
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 Nysa, Bouleuterion, "Little Refugee"
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 Athens, Kerameikos, Base of the statue of a wrestler
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 Olympia, Head of the boxer Satyros
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 Sparta, Statue of Julia Aquilia Severa, damaged after her death
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 Eleusis, Relief of a drunk Heracles
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 Thebes, Tombstone
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 Aegina, Temple of Apollo, Statue of a wounded warrior
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 Piraeus, Statue of a woman or Demeter
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 Mycene, Wall painting ("La Parisienne")
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 Eleusis, Tombstone of a warrior
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 Akrotiri, Building B, Room B1, Wall painting of boxers
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 Athens, Kerameikos, Siren
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 Piraeus, Funerary stela with ball players
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 Thebes, Head of Artemis
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 Mycene, Dagger with lion hunt
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 Athens, Agora, Late Geometric pyxis
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 Athens, Statue of a Minotaur
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 Argos, Heraion, West pediment, Palladion
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 Corinth, Relief of a hoplite
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 Athens, Varvakeion Athena
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 Dodona, Figurine of Zeus Keraunos
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 Megara, Statue of Dionysus
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 Piraeus, Julian the Apostate
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 Alexandria, Alexander the Great (part of a group with Hephaestion)
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 Athens, Stoa of Attalus, Attalus II Philadelphus
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 Melos, Statue of Poseidon
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 Athens, Temple of Zeus, Portrait of Polemo of Laodicea
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 Zeus and Ganymedes
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 Athens, Kerameikos, Dipylon krater
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 Argos, Heraion, West pediment, Head of Hera
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 Eretria, Lekythos (Bosanquet Painter)
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 Megara, Statue of a Roman emperor (Trajan or Hadrian)
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 Pharsalus, Krater with a four-horse chariot
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 Sais, Temple of Neith, Statuette
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 Lead figurine of Athena
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 Gomphoi, Relief of Odysseus and Amphicleia
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 Chalcis-Vromousa, Head of a woman (Roman copy of a Greek original)
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 Argos, Theater, Statue of Aphrodite
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 Eleusis, Temple F, Cecrops and Herse
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 Athens, Pnyx, Lenormant Athena
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 Eretria, Gymnasium, Statue of Cleonicus
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 Piraeus, Votive stela of a reclining Dionysus
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 Piraeus, Head of a bearded god
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