That was not very clever: visiting the National Archaeological Museum on the last day of a two week trip through northern and central Greece. Of course, it was a nice summary of everything we’ve seen, but I think it would have been better to start over here. Ever a teacher, I might have used the museum’s splendid collection of sculpture to explain to my companions the development of Greek art.
That’s what you’ll find on the first floor: lots of sculpture in a series of rooms surrounding a large hall, which is devoted to Mycenaean art. There, you will find the golden objects from Mycenae that Schliemann found. The sculpture rooms surround it. Your tour starts with some kouroi and you can easily follow the growth to greater accuracy in representing the human body. When you’ve finished about a third of your tour, the Greek sculptors have mastered every aspect of anatomy, and you will pass along many classical sculptures, including two dazzling copies of the Diadumenus and the Cnidian Aphrodite. After that, more sculpture: the fourth century, Hellenism, and finally the Roman age.
On the ground floor, there’s also a series of rooms that contain metal art. Here, you will see the Anticythera Mechanism, but also collections of arrowheads from Marathon and Thermopylae. The Egyptian part – also on the ground floor – is a bit odd in a museum dedicated to Greek art, but the collection is too small to be exposed in a museum of its own and too important to keep stored away. In the Hellenistic part of the Egyptian collection, I noticed a statue of Hephaestion that I had never seen before.
Upstairs, you will find a marvelous collection of pottery and some objects that don’t fit anywhere else, like the Lemnian inscription, written in a language related to Etruscan. Next to it is a section dedicated to the investigations at Santorini, where some splendid frescoes have been found.
Do not forget to visit the basement. There’s a little café with a garden, where you will see some of the sculptures found in the Anticythera wreck. They have a certain beauty because they are partly eroded. I found the giant Heracles absolutely fascinating.
This museum was visited in 1989, 1992, 2004, 2007, 2010.
 Lead figurine of Athena
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 Piraeus, Theater, Head of Dionysus (classicizing)
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 Thebes (?), Block statue of Prince Horwedja, governor and high priest in Heliopolis
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 Eretria, Lekythos (Bosanquet Painter)
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 Eleusis, Temple F, Cecrops and Herse
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 Athens, Stoa of Attalus, Attalus II Philadelphus
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 Argos, Heraion, West pediment, Head of Hera
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 Nysa, Bouleuterion, "Little Refugee"
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 Eucratides II of Bactria
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 Thermopylae, Arrowheads
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 Thebes, Tombstone
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 Dodona, Figurine of Zeus Keraunos
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 Gomphoi, Relief of Odysseus and Amphicleia
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 Alexandria, Alexander the Great (part of a group with Hephaestion)
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 Mycene, Wall painting of a griffin with a warrior
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 Aegina, Temple of Apollo, Statue of a wounded warrior
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 Hellenistic ruler
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 Eretria, Gymnasium, Statue of Cleonicus
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 Megara, Statue of a Roman emperor (Trajan or Hadrian)
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 Mycene, Wall painting ("La Parisienne")
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 Oropos, Aeolian-Ionic capital
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 Athens, Kerameikos, Alexander with a Lion's Pelt
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 Lycian portrait of Omphale
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 Mycene, Boar's tusk helmet
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 Melos, Statue of Poseidon
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 Megara, Statue of Dionysus
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 Athens, Agora, Late Geometric pyxis
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 The fight for the body of Patroclus.
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 Sparta, Statue of Julia Aquilia Severa, damaged after her death
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 Megiste, Bellerophon sarcophagus.
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 Piraeus, Head of a bearded god
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 Larisa, Tombstone of a man with a hat
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 Zeus and Ganymedes
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 Akrotiri, Building B, Room B1, Wall painting of antelopes
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 Athens, Kerameikos, Skull of Myrthis
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 Piraeus, Funerary stela of Damasistrate
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 Athens, Kerameikos, Siren
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 Smyrna, Portrait of Caligula, reworked to resemble Titus
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 Argos, Theater, Statue of Aphrodite
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 Athens, Kerameikos, Dipylon krater
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 Sais, Temple of Neith, Statuette
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 Eleusis, Tombstone of a warrior
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 Eleusis, Relief of a drunk Heracles
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 Akrotiri, Building B, Room B1, Wall painting of boxers
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 Argos, Heraion, Amazonomachy
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 Aegina, Ptolemy VI Philometor
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 Piraeus, Statue of a woman or Demeter
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 Artemisium, Statue of Zeus
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 Larisa, Tombstone of Polyxena
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 Lebadeia, Relief of Trophonius
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 Athens, Statue of a Minotaur
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 Chalcis-Vromousa, Head of a woman (Roman copy of a Greek original)
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 Eleusis, Relief of Demeter, Triptolemus, and Kore
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 Argos, Heraion, Sima
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 Marathon, Arrowheads
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 Athens, Kerameikos, Base of the statue of a wrestler
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 Epidauros, Temple of Artemis, Nike
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 Pharsalus, Krater with a four-horse chariot
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 Athens, Pnyx, Lenormant Athena
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 Mycene, Dagger with lion hunt
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 Corinth, Relief of a hoplite
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 Thebes, Head of Artemis
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 Corinth, Plate with Demeter
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 Mycene, House of the Warrior Krater, Warrior Krater
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 Argos, Heraion, West pediment, Palladion
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 Olympia, Head of the boxer Satyros
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 Piraeus, Julian the Apostate
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 Decree of Tefnakht
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 Piraeus, Votive stela of a reclining Dionysus
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 Aegina, Tombstone of a young man, holding a bird
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 Lemnos, Tombstone of an Etruscan (?) warrior
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 Alexandria, Hephaestion (part of a group with Alexander)
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 Athens, Temple of Zeus, Portrait of Polemo of Laodicea
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 Athens, Varvakeion Athena
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 Piraeus, Funerary stela with ball players
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 Argos, Relief of the Doryphorus of Polykleitos
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